THE EFFECT OF OILS WITH DIFFERENT FATTY ACID PROFILES ON THE PROPERTIES OF THE FAT PHASE OF A COSMETIC EMULSION
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.32782/tnv-tech.2025.1.42Keywords:
skin barrier function, epidermal lipids, fatty acid composition, polyunsaturated fatty acids, a mixture of vegetable oils, emulsionAbstract
In recent years, significant progress has been made in the study of the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum of the skin ‒ the most important object of influence of cosmetic products. This allows you to choose ingredients for cosmetic preparations taking into account the natural composition of the lipid barrier. Analysis of the fatty acid composition of individual cosmetic oils allows us to state that none of them meets the requirements for a perfectly balanced lipid composition of normal skin type. We modeled the composition of a mixture of three oils that have a favorable ratio between oleic, linoleic and linolenic acids, which ensures their participation in the metabolic processes of skin regeneration. The following blend composition is offered: rosehip oil 50% + sea buckthorn oil 25% + olive oil 25%; grape oil 45% + sea buckthorn oil 30% + apricot oil 25% %. When using oils in these ratios, it is possible to achieve a balance between linoleic and linolenic acids at the level of 0.05 for both blends, which corresponds to the content of these acids in the lipid matrix of normal skin. And the ratio between linoleic and oleic acid is 0.75 for a mixture based on rosehip oil and 0.70 for a mixture based on grape oil, with a norm of 0.75 for healthy skin. The detected content of trans-isomerized fatty acids is not an obstacle to the cosmetic use of the proposed mixtures, since it does not exceed a trace level of 0.01%. The tested organoleptic (appearance, color, smell) and physicochemical indicators (acid, peroxide, color number, moisture and volatile substances content, soap quality test) of the samples of the developed blends indicate the possibility of their use as the fat phase of cosmetic emulsions. The properties of the first type emulsion with a content of 34% fat phase stabilized by hydrolyzed lecithin were tested. It was shown that such emulsions have high sensory properties, but lose stability within 48–54 hours due to coalescence of the fat phase.
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